Spinel: The Best-Kept Secret in Fine Jewellery
Did you know the famous “Black Prince’s Ruby” in the British Crown Jewels isn’t a ruby at all? It’s a spinel — a gemstone long mistaken for ruby before gem science corrected history.
“Spinel is finally getting the spotlight it deserves,” says Matthew Ely. “Once overlooked, it’s now recognised as one of the most precious stones in the world.”
What is Spinel?
Spinel is a naturally occurring gemstone known for its brilliant colours, high clarity, and durability. Unlike many coloured gems, spinel gemstones are almost always untreated, making them especially appealing to collectors and designers.
Key varieties include:
Red Spinel: Vibrant, ruby-like hues, especially prized when sourced from Myanmar (Burma).
Mahenge (Pink) Spinel: Intense hot pinks and vivid reds from Tanzania’s Mahenge region.
Cobalt Blue Spinel: Exceptionally rare, known for its neon-like brilliance and saturation.
Black Spinel: A sleek, deep black often used in contemporary jewellery.
Other Rare Spinel Colours: Lavender, orangey-red (sometimes called “rosemary”), grey — unique choices for collectors.
What is Spinel?
Spinel is a naturally occurring gemstone known for its brilliant colours, high clarity, and durability. Unlike many coloured gems, spinel gemstones are almost always untreated, making them especially appealing to collectors and designers.
Key varieties include:
Red Spinel: Vibrant, ruby-like hues, especially prized when sourced from Myanmar (Burma).
Mahenge (Pink) Spinel: Intense hot pinks and vivid reds from Tanzania’s Mahenge region.
Cobalt Blue Spinel: Exceptionally rare, known for its neon-like brilliance and saturation.
Black Spinel: A sleek, deep black often used in contemporary jewellery.
Other Rare Spinel Colours: Lavender, orangey-red (sometimes called “rosemary”), grey — unique choices for collectors.
Why Spinel is Surging in 2025/26?
Spinel’s popularity has exploded in recent years — and for good reason. Once mistaken for ruby and long overshadowed by the “big three” (ruby, sapphire, emerald), spinel gemstones are now commanding attention in the fine jewellery world and among collectors. Here's why:
Untreated Natural Colour: Spinel stands out because its vivid colours — from hot reds to cobalt blues — are almost always natural and untreated.
Growing Collector Demand: As collectors look beyond traditional stones, spinel’s rarity, durability (with a Mohs hardness of 8), and natural beauty make it an increasingly popular choice for investment.
Vibrant Colour Range: Few gemstones offer the spectrum of spinel. Whether it’s a pure, fiery red, a neon pink, an intense cobalt blue, or even softer lavender or grey tones, spinel’s range of colours appeals to those seeking something different.
Exceptional Clarity & Brilliance: Spinel often forms with fewer inclusions than other coloured stones, making it ideal for jewellery where brightness and clarity are key. A well-cut spinel will flash with brilliant colour in any light.
“Spinel’s colour and brilliance speak for themselves,” says Matthew. “Now that collectors understand its rarity and natural beauty, demand is soaring — especially for top-quality pink, red and cobalt spinels.”
How to Buy Spinel?
Prioritise Colour: Vivid, richly saturated colours — especially reds, pinks, and blues — are the most collectible.
- Look for reds with pure, ruby-like tones.
- Seek hot, neon pinks from Tanzania’s Mahenge region.
- For cobalt blue spinel, rich saturation and strong brilliance are key.
- Unique hues like lavender, grey, and orangey-red (rosemary) are growing in popularity for their individuality.
“When you move a good spinel in the light, it should light up,” Matthew says. “That liveliness is what separates a collector’s stone from an ordinary one.”
Check the Cut & Brilliance: Spinel’s brilliance comes from its cut. A well-cut spinel will flash bright in any setting, while a poorly cut stone can appear lifeless, even with good colour.
- Look for well-proportioned cuts that enhance the gem’s natural brilliance.
- Avoid overly deep or shallow stones, which can dull sparkle.
Understand Clarity Expectations: While spinel tends to have fewer inclusions than many coloured gemstones, these can still be present — particularly in rare colours like cobalt spinel.
- Eye-clean stones are ideal, but slight inclusions are acceptable.
- Inclusions in spinel are typically small crystals or fine threads, not large cracks or clouds.
Confirm Natural Origin with Certification: With rare gemstones, authenticity matters. Always request a gemmological certificate from a trusted lab (like Lotus or GIA) confirming the stone is natural spinel and untreated.
Know the Origin: The source of a spinel can influence its value, and its story.
- Myanmar (Burma): Renowned for vibrant red spinels
- Tanzania (Mahenge): Home to the world’s finest neon pink and pink-red spinels.
- Vietnam, Madagascar, Sri Lanka: Known for cobalt spinel and unique colour varieties.
Origin isn’t everything, but in rare colours, provenance can make a difference for collectors.
A Word From Matthew
“Spinel is still undervalued in the market — and that makes now a great time to collect. For anyone looking for something unique, natural, and with the potential to hold or grow in value, spinel is a smart choice.
“There’s a lot of excitement around cobalt blue spinel in particular. The colour is so striking, and fine examples are incredibly rare. When we do find one, it never stays long in the boutique.”
A Word From Matthew
“Spinel is still undervalued in the market — and that makes now a great time to collect. For anyone looking for something unique, natural, and with the potential to hold or grow in value, spinel is a smart choice.
“There’s a lot of excitement around cobalt blue spinel in particular. The colour is so striking, and fine examples are incredibly rare. When we do find one, it never stays long in the boutique.”
