Behind the Bench

The Emerald Renaissance

How to choose and wear emeralds, with Woollahra jeweller Matthew Ely.

Emeralds have never been ones to go unnoticed. Just ask Queen Camilla, who wore the Queen Mother’s Cartier emerald and diamond bracelet to Royal Ascot in June, or Amal Clooney, who chose an emerald and diamond cocktail ring for the 2026 Venice Film Festival.

But what catches a jeweller’s eye when the emerald is still a loose gemstone? For Matthew Ely, it begins with colour.


3.82ct Muzo Emerald Ring
3.82ct Muzo Emerald Ring

What makes an exceptional emerald?

“Colour is the first thing I look at. I'd choose a smaller stone with incredible colour over a larger one that's dull or lifeless every time.”

Matthew looks for a rich, vibrant green. His advice when choosing an emerald is to view it in natural daylight and tilt it gently. Watch how the light moves across the facets and whether the green that first caught your eye still appeals as the stone turns.

What should you look for inside an emerald?

Look closely at an emerald and you may see fine, moss-like features within the stone. Jewellers sometimes call these natural inclusions its jardin, the French word for ‘garden’.

“Don't dismiss an emerald because you can see something inside it. What matters is whether the inclusions interfere with its beauty.”

Matthew also suggests asking where the emerald comes from and whether it has been treated with oil or resin to improve its apparent clarity. For a significant purchase, he recommends asking to see an independent gemmological report.


Two emerald and diamond bracelets worn side by side on a wrist
Emerald & Diamond Bracelets

How do you wear emeralds?

“Personally, I love emeralds in yellow gold,” says Matthew. “There's something about that combination that really brings the green to life. But set alongside white diamonds in platinum, they take on a completely different, Art Deco elegance.”

His styling advice is simple: let the emerald do the talking. A statement ring needs little else, while an emerald bracelet looks just as beautiful with a crisp white shirt as it does with evening wear.

3.82ct Muzo Emerald Ring Sketch

Choosing an emerald for a bespoke piece

Matthew recently returned from Jewellery & Gem WORLD Hong Kong with a selection of loose emeralds he chose for the Woollahra boutique.

At a bespoke appointment, you can compare the emeralds in natural light and try your favourite against yellow gold or platinum. Once you’ve chosen your stone, Matthew sketches the design by hand before the piece is handcrafted in his Queen Street workshop.

Book an appointment with Matthew to view the emeralds at 92 Queen Street, Woollahra.

3.82ct Muzo Emerald Ring Making Of
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