Book A Private Consultation with Matthew Ely
Menu
Search
0
Cart
Behind the Bench

The Making Of: An 8.44ct Ceylon Sapphire & Diamond Ring

How do you give a classic sapphire and diamond ring a little something ‘extra’?

Turn this one on its side and you’ll see. Beneath the sapphire, the white gold opens into a series of curves. It’s a detail that’s easy to miss when you’re distracted by all that blue!

This side view was central to Matthew’s brief. Join us behind the bench in Woollahra for a closer look at how our jeweller Louis brought the design to life.


The making of a Ceylon sapphire ring.
Loose gemstones alongside the colour and pencil sketches.

Step 1. The Sapphire & the Sketch

The design began with a loose Ceylon sapphire weighing 8.44ct. It measures 13.64mm long and 11.3mm across, and that broad oval shape gives it real presence on the hand.

The question was how large to go with the diamonds. The pair we chose weigh 0.72ct and 0.71ct. In the original sketch, you can see why they work: the three ovals share the same soft outline, but the difference in scale keeps the sapphire firmly at the centre.

For Louis, the appeal was in “the depth of the blue, the contrast of the white”.

The making of a Ceylon sapphire ring.
The sapphire and white gold beside the original profile drawing.
The making of a Ceylon sapphire ring.
An early setting beside the loose sapphire.

Step 2. Handcrafting the Settings

At the bench in Woollahra, Louis cut and rolled a piece of 18ct white gold to the thickness he needed, then shaped a setting for each of the three stones.

The sapphire is 7.2mm deep. Making its setting by hand allowed Louis to choose exactly how high the stone would sit on the finger and where the two diamonds would meet it.

With those proportions in place, he could begin work on the band.

The making of a Ceylon sapphire ring.
The open centre setting with an oval seat on either side.
The making of a Ceylon sapphire ring.
The band blank beside the three-stone setting.

Step 3. Shaping the Band & Claws

Louis made the band separately, spending much of his time on the curve where it rises to meet the settings. Together, the band and settings form what he calls “the spine of the ring”. Once he’d joined them, he could refine the open goldwork beneath the stones.

The making of a Ceylon sapphire ring.
The shoulders of the band taking shape.
The making of a Ceylon sapphire ring.
The open band and lengths of wire laid out on the sketch.

A closer look at the claws

Even the smallest claw began as a fine length of white gold. Each had to hold its gemstone securely, but Louis gave just as much thought to its thickness and curve. “You can’t ignore that element, even though it’s so tiny,” he says.

The making of a Ceylon sapphire ring.
The sapphire between the unfinished claws, with both diamonds still loose.
Diamond & Ceylon sapphire ring by Matthew Ely Jewellery
Fresh from the bench in Woollahra.

Step 4. The Finished Ring

When we asked Louis who he pictured wearing the ring, he described someone confident, drawn to colour, who likes her jewellery to stand out.

Across a table, it’s the sapphire that catches the eye. On your own hand, you get the view Matthew had in mind from the first sketch: that polished curve of white gold tucked beneath the stones.

The making of a Ceylon sapphire ring.
The finished three-stone ring.
Diamond & Ceylon sapphire ring by Matthew Ely Jewellery

The original sketch brought to life.

Enquire about the ring or arrange a private viewing at our Woollahra boutique.

Enquire about the ring
×