The Tanzanite Star: A Collector’s Gem Reimagined
“There’s a different feeling when something is made entirely by hand,” says Matthew Ely.
Some pieces begin with a design brief. Others begin with a gemstone so rare and remarkable that it sets the direction entirely.
A collector’s gemstone.
Enter: this 30.25ct tanzanite & diamond Art Deco men’s brooch.
The Gemstone: 'A Red Flash'
This piece began long before the first sketch.
A long-standing client and gemstone collector brought this extraordinary tanzanite into the boutique. Bold, rare and undeniably beautiful, but waiting for its moment.
“It was originally a heart-shaped stone, with the most incredible red flash,” says Matthew.
“The moment you catch a hint of red or burgundy flickering through the blue of a tanzanite, you know it’s a high-grade stone. It feels alive.”
The Brief: An Art Deco Men's Brooch
The next step was to translate this beauty into something both wearable and unique: an Art Deco style men’s brooch. Something with presence, but not predictable.
“We finessed the cut of the gemstone into a large pear-shape tanzanite, which was preferred by the client,” says Matthew.
“He was drawn to vintage influences but wanted a result that felt modern and architectural rather than traditional.”
The direction became one of clean lines and strong geometry.
The Process
From there, the design evolved through sketches, conversations, and constant refinement. Every element of the Tanzanite Star was handcrafted.
“I think accuracy is the hard part,” Matthew explains. “Every little millimetre change makes a big difference.”
Custom-cut sapphires were introduced to frame the tanzanite, each one carefully matched in tone and proportion.
“We had to find a matching set, then have them all custom cut to align perfectly. Precision is everything with a piece like this.”
The diamonds presented another layer of complexity. Arranged in tapering formations to create the star-like silhouette, they required exact placement, particularly when working with a mix of newly sourced stones and family diamonds.
“When you’re working with a fixed set of diamonds, you can’t just adjust everything easily,” Matthew explains. “The spacing and taper have to be mapped out perfectly.”
Only once every surrounding element was complete could the centre stone be set. The final step.
“It absolutely deserved the time and care poured into it."
Why Tanzanite?
Tanzanite is rare by nature, found only in a single region of Tanzania. But rarity alone isn’t what makes it so compelling.
It’s the way it moves. Blues shift into violet. Violet into flashes of red. The colour is not static; it changes with light, angle, and movement.
“It’s a next-level stone,” says Matthew. “That red flash is everything.”
In a piece like this, the stone leads. The design simply brings it to life.
